Bodyboard after a kidney transplant

Hi!

First times I went to the transplant routine medical checks, one of the doctors told me that there was a bodyboarder guy transplanted, also from Oviedo.

It was a big surprise for me! Because for sure I could learn a lot from him for coming back surfing.

I could talk with José Ángel, and ask him some doubts I had.

Time after, it looked very interesting to interview him for publishing it at this blog, to which José Ángel immediately acceded. You can read the interview below.  


Thanks a lot José Ángel! See you in some months at the beach!


Why you started bodyboarding and when?

I started when I was 15 as everybody, or I think so. I bought a boogie for going during the summer with my friends, and at the end, everyone ended so stoked that even today, all of us continue bodyboarding.

Which is the beach you more like to go?

No doubt about it, it's Xagó, very close to Avilés.



Bodyboarder: José Ángel / Beach: Xagó

Best wave you caught?

After so many years bodyboarding, surprisingly, it was this same year at Andrín beach, at Llanes county. Another good one was at el Palmar (Cádiz), and how not, at the mentioned Xagó. 

Could you describe any wave or moment bodyboarding that had been recorded in your memory?

Yes, a couple of times. For people not to think that everything is marvelous in this sport or lifestyle, they were a bit distressing.

One was at San Vicente de la Barquera beach (Cantabria) and another one at San Juan de Nieva (Aviles). Both times there was a big swell, and my leash was broken.

How long was recommended to you for waiting after the transplant for coming back to catch waves?

It was coming with as my physical state and mood state, but the medical advice was one year for doing strong physical exercise.

¿Qué te aporta el bodyboard que hace que no puedas dejarlo? What does bodyboard gives you that you can´t leave it?

Today I can´t explain it it's like an addiction. I just know that you have a kind of alarm inside your body that goes off and you give it preference to nearly everything, just for going to catch some waves.

I'm so hooked up, that even when the web forecast says there are no waves, I go to the beach to see if luckily the prediction was wrong.



Bodyboarder: José Ángel / Beach: Xagó

Do you use any kind of protection for your kidney?

Yes. It's a home remedy  made with sponges.

Did you get the information for making that protection from any person that used it previously?

No, the need of going to the beach sharpens the mind

¿Cómo vas sobre el boogie?How do you ride the boogie?

Prone and drop knee.



Bodyboarder: José Ángel / Beach: Xagó

¿Qué grosores de neoprenos usas?What neoprene thickness you use?

I use to wear a 3/2 mm for being comfortable, although when it's cold I suffer a bit.

Do you feel any discomfort for staying so much time in the water, or for remaining lying on the boogie?

I don´t feel any pain, but I feel more cold, maybe because the weight and fat loss.

How do you feel now physically in the water, and what wave size have you managed to ride?

Physically, I even feel better than before, and just happens that when going to the water after so much time, it takes some sessions before getting fit.

I catched around 1,5 meters.

¿Arriesgas tanto como antes de recibir el trasplante?Do you risk as as before receiving the transplant?

No. Now I'm more moderate, and not so aggressive, above all when finishing the wave on the last maneuver.



Bodyboarder: José Ángel / Beach: Xagó

What feelings have you got for coming back bodyboarding after the transplant?

Incredible. I remember the first time I went, after reaching the line-up, not without a big effort...jejeje, I stood sitting over the boogie, and started to look to the cliff and the sky that was surrounding me, and couldn't avoid some tears due to the emotion and happiness. Very hard to explain.

Any travel you want to do and why?

The first one to New York, because it is something I had planned with my wife, and the second one going again to Cadiz, to Palmar, because there was the last time I went bodyboarding before I was diagnosed with chronic kidney disease.